The first thing you notice about Southern Africa (in the winter) is the burned and blackened side of the road. Hundreds and hundreds of square feet of charred turf surround the streets. I immediately asked Moketzi, our driver, if they were controlled burns and he said sometimes but mostly they are from fires people build at night to stay warm, and do not put out. Evidently they aren’t as in touch with their fire prevention representative as we are with Smoky, but they certainly need to be. Once I began to look for burning fires and evidence to support Moketzi’s claim, the streets illuminated. Driving through fog in the mornings, fires would come into view like a lighthouse through a harbor. As we approach, outlines of people would appear huddled and tending to their fire. With my forehead pressed against the window I would try to discern how many people surrounded the flames until I could no longer see. The fires would be lost behind traffic as I turned to find the next one. In the evenings, we would return by coming over a bridge through the city and I would look down to see each corner rippling in flames. Yet another sign of poverty, that like the flames of a fire, you cannot help but pay attention.
PS. Inspired, as usual, by Lupe Fiasco "Streets on Fire"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UF7rBcFolAc
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